I-Makalu Base Camp Trek

Ukufika esikhumulweni sezindiza iTribhuvan International Airport eKathmandu kubalwa njengosuku lokuqala lweMakalu Base Camp Trek yakho. Ngemva kokwehla endizeni, into yokuqala okufanele uyenze ukuthola i-visa yakho yezivakashi esigabeni sokufuduka. Ukuze wenze lokhu, udinga ukucela isicelo se-visa, usigcwalise, ukhokhe imali yakho ye-visa njengoba uhlose ukuhlala, bese wethula wonke amadokhumenti adingekayo esikhulwini se-visa.

Udinga ukwethula ipasipoti yakho, isicelo sakho se-visa, izithombe ezimbili ezilingana nepasipoti, irisidi yemali ye-visa, ubufakazi bendawo yokuhlala, kanye nobufakazi bamathikithi okubuyisa. Ngemuva kwalokho, isikhulu sezokufuduka sizoqinisekisa imininingwane yakho bese sifaka i-visa kupasipoti yakho. Lonke lolu hlelo luzothatha isikhathi esingaphezu kwehora ukuqedela. Ungafaka futhi isicelo se-visa yezivakashi ku-inthanethi, okuyindlela enhle yokonga isikhathi ezikhumulweni zezindiza ezigcwele abantu ngesikhathi sesizini yokuhamba ngezinyawo ematasa kakhulu.

Lokhu kugcinelwe ukufaka izicelo nokuthola izimvume zeMakalu Base Camp Trek kanye nohambo losuku lonke edolobheni laseKathmandu. Okokuqala, sizoqala usuku ngokudla kwasekuseni okunamandla, kulandelwe ukufaka izicelo zezimvume ezidingekayo eHhovisi leBhodi Lezokuvakasha eKathmandu. Ithimba lochwepheshe beGlory Adventure lizokusiza ukuthola lezo zimvume kuyilapho okumele ukwenze nje ukunikeza amadokhumenti adingekayo.

Ngemva kokuba izimvume zethu sezilungisiwe, sizogibela i-jeep/imoto yangasese ukuze sizulazule esigodini saseKathmandu. Uhambo lwethu losuku luhlanganisa izindawo ezifana neBouddhanath Stupa, iSwayambhunath Stupa, iPashupatinath Temple, iKathmandu Durbar Square, iBhaktapur Durbar Square, nokuningi. Siphinde sikunikeze ithuba lokuklama uhlelo lwakho losuku. Isidlo sasemini nesakusihlwa sanamuhla akuzona ingxenye yephakheji ejwayelekile yeMakalu Base Camp Trek.

Namuhla usuku olunzima lokuhamba njengoba sizoqala ngendiza siye eTumlingtar, okuzothatha cishe imizuzu engama-30 kuya kwengama-50, kuye ngosuku lwesonto. Sizogibela indiza encane evame ukuhamba ngaphambi kuka-10 ekuseni. Ukuze uthole imibono emihle kakhulu, kufanele ubhukhe izihlalo ohlangothini lwesobunxele lwendiza, esizoyihlela ngokusemandleni ethu.

Ngemva kokufika eTumlingtar, sizogibela i-jeep/imoto ukuze sishayele siye edolobhaneni laseNum. Lolu hambo lungaba ngamakhilomitha angama-65 ubude, okuzosithatha amahora ama-4 kuya kwangama-5 ukuhlanganisa njengoba isimo somgwaqo singesihle. Umgwaqo onzima, ogcwele imigodi, uqala ngemva kokuwela iKhandbari, okuthatha cishe imizuzu engama-30 ukufika kuwo. Ngandlela thile, sizofika edolobhaneni laseNum futhi sichithe ubusuku bethu bokuqala endlini yetiye.

Usuku lwesine lweMakalu Base Camp Trek luwusuku lwethu lokuqala lokuhamba ngezinyawo ohambweni lwethu. Ibanga eliphelele lokuhamba ngezinyawo lingamakhilomitha ayi-8 kanti isikhathi sokuhamba ngezinyawo silinganiselwa emahoreni ayi-6 kuya kwayi-7. Nakuba ushintsho lokuphakama namuhla luncane kakhulu, umzila uhlanganisa ukukhuphuka nokwehla okuningi kanye nokwehla okuphelele okungamamitha angaba ngu-772 kanye nokukhuphuka okungamamitha angu-700. Ukusuka eNum, sizokwehla ehlathini eliluhlaza bese sifika eMfuleni i-Arun. Lokhu ukwehlela okungamamitha angu-772 okuthatha cishe amakhilomitha amabili.

Ngemva kokuhamba ngezinyawo cishe amahora amabili kuya kwamathathu, sizofika ebhulohweni lokumiswa koMfula i-Arun. Ukuwela ibhulohwe kusingenisa eMakalu Barun National Park. Amabhuloho okumiswa ayingxenye enkulu yanoma yiluphi ulwazi lokuhamba ngezinyawo eHimalaya njengoba kuyiwona kuphela oxhumanisa amadolobhana akude nomhlaba wangaphandle. Lawa mabhuloho anyakazayo angaba yinto esabekayo okokuqala, kodwa uzowajwayela ekugcineni.

Ukuwela uMfula i-Arun kuyindawo lapho kuqala khona ukukhuphuka okuphakeme okungamamitha angu-700. Le ngxenye ingamakhilomitha amathathu ubude, kuthatha amahora amathathu kuya kwamane ukuyihlanganisa, futhi idlula edolobhaneni laseRunmura, lapho sizothatha khona ikhefu elifushane. Uma siqhubeka, umzila ugandaywe ngamatshe kuze kube sedolobhaneni laseSeduwa, lapho kutholakala khona indawo yokuqala yokuhlola uhambo lweMakalu Base Camp Trek.

Ibanga lokuhamba ngezinyawo lanamuhla lingamakhilomitha ayi-10 nje kuphela kanye nokuphakama okungamamitha angu-600. Isikhathi esilinganiselwayo sokuhamba ngezinyawo singamahora ama-5 kuya kwangu-6, okusiyisa kumamitha angu-2200 ngaphezu kolwandle. Uma sesisuka eSeduwa, indlela ikhuphuka kancane kancane emadolobheni amancane nasemahlathini ngezikhathi ezithile. Sizowela imifudlana eminingi phezu kwamabhuloho amancane, sidlule emadolobheni aseSherpa nasezindongeni ze-mani endleleni.

Maduze nje, sizofika eTashigaon, idolobhana lokugcina elihlala njalo ohambweni lwethu. Siqhubekela phambili, zonke izindawo ezingaphambili zihlala abantu ngezikhathi ezithile zonyaka, ehlobo, entwasahlobo nasekwindla. Imvula nobusika akuthandwa ngabantu bendawo, futhi bavame ukuya ezindaweni eziphansi ukuze bagweme izimo zezulu ezimbi kakhulu ngalezo zikhathi zonyaka.

Usuku lwesithupha lohambo lweMakalu Base Camp luyi-8.5 km ubude kanye nokuphakama okungamamitha ayi-1400. Lolu hambo luzosithatha amahora ayi-6 kuya kwayi-7 ukuqeda, lusithathe amamitha ayi-3500 ngaphezu kolwandle eKhongma Danda. Uhambo luqala ngokukhuphuka izitebhisi zamatshe, ingxenye ephakeme engase ibe bushelelezi. Le ndlela izosiholela edolobhaneni laseDhara, elingamamitha angu-2867 ukuphakama, lithathe cishe amahora amathathu ohambo.

Sizoba nekhefu elifushane lapho ngaphambi kokuthuthela edolobhaneni lase-Unshisha, elifinyelela amamitha angu-3200 ngaphezu kolwandle. Le ngxenye yohambo idinga ukukhuphuka phezu kwamatshe amakhulu. Ngemva kwalokho, sizofika engxenyeni yokugcina yohambo lwanamuhla, intaba ephakeme edlula ezindaweni zamadlelo asezintabeni. Ngemva kwamahora amaningi okukhuphuka intaba, ekugcineni sizofika eKhongma Danda, lapho kwakhiwa khona izindlu ezimbalwa zetiye.

Ukuze sizuze ngokugcwele ngosuku lwethu lokuphumula, sizothatha uhambo lokujwayela iKhogma La Pass, sifinyelele amamitha angu-3890 ngaphezu kolwandle. Lokhu kuphakama kwamamitha angu-390 kuzosisiza sijwayelane kangcono. Kuzosithatha cishe amahora amathathu kuya kwamane ukuqeda lolu hambo. Sizoqala uhambo ngokunyuka okuphakeme phezu kwezitebhisi zamatshe; ngemva kwehora elilodwa lokunyuka, sizofika eKhongma La Pass, ehlotshiswe ngamafulegi omthandazo.

Le ndlela inikeza umbono omuhle kakhulu weChamlang, iPeak 6, kanye neMakalu Peak, kanye nombono obanzi weBarun Valley. Ngaphandle kwalokho, ungahlola ezinye izindawo zokubukwa eziseduze noma umane uzungeze idolobhana, uhlole izici zalo ezahlukene ezithakazelisayo.

Inhloso yethu eyinhloko yosuku ukuvumela imizimba yethu ijwayele kahle izinguquko zokushisa, isimo sezulu, kanye nezici zemvelo zizonke. Isici esiyinhloko esisithintayo ushintsho lwephesenti lomoya-mpilo emoyeni. Okuqukethwe komoya-mpilo okuphansi kungenye yezimbangela eziyinhloko zokugula kokuphakama, futhi kusenza sikhathale ngokushesha. Ukuzivumelanisa nalolu shintsho kuzosisiza kakhulu kulo lonke uhambo lwaseMakalu Base Camp.

Uhambo lwanamuhla ludinga ukuthi sihambe cishe amakhilomitha ayi-8 ngokuphakama okungamamitha angama-360, okuthatha amahora angaba ngu-6 kuya kwangu-7 ukuqeda. Usuku lonke, sizokhuphuka ngaphezu kwamamitha angu-850 ukuphakama futhi silahlekelwe amamitha angaba ngu-600. Sisuka eKhongma Danda, sizoqala ukukhuphuka umqansa ophakeme, sihamba ngochungechunge lwezitebhisi zamatshe. Silandela umkhondo wangozolo, sizokhuphukela eKhongma La Pass bese sehlela eSano Pokhari Danda, sidlule uchungechunge lwezintaba nokwehla.

Njengoba siqhubeka nohambo, sizofika maduze phansi kweShipton La Pass, eqanjwe ngegama lomkhweli wezintaba waseBrithani u-Eric Shipton. Isiqongo sale ndlela sifinyelela amamitha angu-4170 futhi sinikeza umbono omuhle wePeak 6, Peak 7, kanye neChamlang. Ukwehla kule ndlela kusiholela eKalo Pokhari, ichibi elingcwele elihlotshiswe ngamafulegi omthandazo. Yindawo enhle yokuphumula, futhi nathi sizokwenza kanjalo.

Ngemva kwekhefu elifushane, sizobuyela endleleni bese siqala ukukhuphuka okufushane ukuya eKeke La Pass, sifinyelele amamitha angu-4080 ngaphezu kolwandle. Lokhu ukukhuphuka kwethu kokugcina kosuku; uma siqhubeka, sizokwehla siye eDobate, sifinyelele amamitha angu-3860 njengendawo yethu yokugcina yokukhuphuka.

Usuku lwesi-9 lohambo lweMakalu Base Camp Trek lusenza sihambe amakhilomitha angaphezu kuka-12 kanti isikhathi sohambo esilinganiselwa emahoreni ama-5 kuya kwangu-6 silinganiselwa. Ukulahleka kokuphakama kosuku kungaphezu kancane kwamamitha angu-300, kodwa umzila uwonke unama-ascents amaningi kanye nokwehla okungaphezu kwamamitha angu-300 ukuphakama. Ukusuka eDobate, sizokwehla kancane kancane ehlathini lephayini. Ngemva kwamahora angaba ngu-2 ohambo, sizofika eBarun River Valley.

Siqhubeka, kuzodingeka siwele imifudlana eminingi emincane, silandela uMfula iBarun phezulu. Le ndlela inezimpophoma namawa, okwenza indawo enhle. Ngemva kwesikhashana, sizofika emadlelweni lapho amaYak nezimvu zingabonakala zidla khona, ngaphansi kokuqapha abelusi bendawo. Le ngxenye yomzila iphinde ibe nehlathi le-rhododendron, eliqhakaza kahle ngesikhathi sentwasahlobo. Ngemva kwamahora ambalwa ohambo, sizofika lapho siya khona ngosuku.

Uhambo lwanamuhla luzoba nzima njengoba sizokhuphuka amamitha angaphezu kuka-850 esikhathini esingamahora ama-5 kuya kwayi-6 sokuhamba ngezinyawo. Ibanga lohambo losuku lingamakhilomitha ayi-12, okungenye yezinsuku ezinde kakhulu zokuhamba ngezinyawo ohambweni lweMakalu Base Camp Trek. Sisuka eYangir Kharka, sizolandela uMfula iBarun bese sikhuphuka kancane amahora ama-2 kuya kwama-3. Lokhu kuzosiholela edolobhaneni laseJak Kharka.

Ngemva kwekhefu elifushane edolobhaneni laseJak Kharka, sizoqhubeka nohambo lwethu ngokunyuka siye edolobhaneni laseYak Kharka. Indlela manje iyajika ibe lukhuni, ikakhulukazi njengoba sisondela eYak Kharka, indawo yamadlelo yesizini. Abelusi abaningi bendawo bavakashela leli hlathi ezinyangeni zasehlobo, kanti abambalwa bangase babe lapho entwasahlobo.

Sisuka eYak Kharka, sizoya edolobhaneni laseMerek, sifinyelele amamitha angu-4500 ngaphezu kolwandle. Ukudlula kule ndawo evulekile yasezintabeni kuzosiholela endaweni esiya kuyo ngalolo suku, iLangmale Kharka.

Usuku lwe-11 lweMakalu Base Camp Trek cishe usuku olunzima kakhulu lokuhamba ngezinyawo, olunebanga elingamakhilomitha ayi-9 lokuhamba ngezinyawo, amamitha angu-460 okukhuphuka kwenetha, kanye nobude bohambo obulinganiselwa emahoreni ayi-6 kuya kwangu-7. Lezi zinombolo azibonakali ziyesabisa kakhulu, kodwa umzila uzokunika amandla. Ukusuka eLangmale Kharka, sizohamba ngendlela ekhuphukayo ephenduka kancane kancane ibe umzila onzima njengoba sikhuphuka.

Ngemva kohambo oluthatha amahora amabili kuya kwamathathu, sizofika edolobhaneni laseShershong, sifinyelele amamitha angu-4650 ngaphezu kolwandle. Kuyindawo enhle yokuphumula imizimba yethu ekhathele ngaphambi kokuqala ukusunduza siye ekamu eliyisisekelo. Ukusuka eShershong, umzila udlula ezindleleni ezinamadwala kanye nezintaba zeqhwa ezigcwele amatshe akhululekile. Lesi sigaba siphinde sibe neqhwa kwezinye izindawo, ikakhulukazi ngezikhathi zasekuseni zosuku.

Njengoba siqhubeka nohambo lwethu endaweni elukhuni neneqhwa, ekugcineni sizofika eMakalu Base Camp, etholakala ngamamitha angu-4870 ngaphezu kolwandle. Indawo evela ekamu inhle kakhulu ukuthi singayithanda. Sizolala endlini yetiye.

Lolu suku lokuhlola luphinde lube usuku lokujwayela indawo, olusigcina siphephile ekuguleni kokuphakama. Kunezindlela eziningi zokuhamba ngezinyawo, okuhlanganisa ukuhamba ngezinyawo ukuya eBarun Pokhari, ukukhuphuka intaba, kanye nokuhamba ngezinyawo ukuya ezindaweni zokubukwa eziseduze mayelana nekamu eliyisisekelo. Inketho ekhethwa kakhulu ukuhamba ngezinyawo ukuya eBarun Pokhari njengoba kuyinhle futhi kufushane. Inzuzo yokuphakama ingamamitha angu-230, okusiyisa kumamitha angu-5100 ngaphezu kolwandle, kanye nohambo olulinganiselwa emahoreni amabili kuya kwamathathu.

Ukuhamba ngezinyawo okungamakhilomitha amathathu ukuya eBarun Pokhari (echibini) kuqala ngokunyuka okukhulu, kuya eBarun Glacier. Esikhathini esingamahora angu-1 kuya kwangu-1.5, sizofika echibini, sinikeza indawo enhle yendawo yonke ezungezile, kufaka phakathi isigodi neziqongo. Ukwehla sibuyele ekamu eliyisisekelo kuthatha cishe isikhathi esifanayo.

Enye indlela yethu yokuhamba ngezinyawo ihlanganisa ukukhuphuka kuze kufike egqumeni elingaphezu kwekamu eliyisisekelo. Lolu hambo luzositholela ukuphakama okungamamitha angu-430, okusiyisa kumamitha angu-5300 ngaphezu kolwandle. Ibanga eliphelele lokuhamba ngezinyawo lingamakhilomitha angu-6 ubude obulinganiselwa emahoreni amathathu kuya kwangu-4. Sisuka ekamu eliyisisekelo, sizohamba endaweni ephakeme, okuyingxenye enzima, ikakhulukazi ngenxa yokuphakama okuphezulu esikuyo.

Uma sihamba kancane futhi sizinzile, sizofika kancane kancane esiqongweni sentaba futhi sijabulele ukubuka iziqongo ezizungezile, okuhlanganisa iNtaba iMakalu, i-Everest, iLhotse, iChamlang, iBaruntse, nokuningi.

Usuku lwe-13 luwusuku lwethu lokuqala lokwehla kohlelo lweMakalu Base Camp Trek. Lolu hambo lunebanga elide lokuhamba ngezinyawo elingamakhilomitha ayi-16, ukulahleka kokuphakama okungamamitha angu-3600, kanye nobude obulinganiselwa emahoreni ayi-6 kuya kwangu-7. Sisuka ekamu lesisekelo, sizokwehla ngomzila omude sidlula eBarun Valley, sidlule endleleni enamadwala. Okokuqala, sizodlula edolobhaneni laseShershong, silandelwe ukwehlela eLangmale Kharka.

Uma siqhubeka nokwehla, sizofika maduze edolobhaneni laseMerek. Sisuka kulo muzi, izitshalo ziqala ukushintsha kancane; amahlathi aminyene aya endleleni. Ngaphambi kokuba sifike eYangri Kharka, sizodlula emahlathini ambalwa.

Ukwehla kokuphakama kwanamuhla kungaphezu kancane kwamamitha angu-480, kanti isikhathi sohambo esilinganiselwa emahoreni angu-6 kuya kwangu-7. Ibanga lohambo lingamakhilomitha angu-9.3 kuphela, siqala ngokwehlela eMfuleni iBarun. Ngemva kohambo lwehora eli-1.5, sizodlula eThemathang bese sifika ebhulohweni eliwela uMfula iBarun. Ukuwela ibhuloho kusiholela endaweni evame ukudilika, okusithatha amahora angu-1.5 engeziwe ukuyihlanganisa.

Uma sidlula kuleyo ngxenye, sizofika ehlathini elihle le-rhododendron, eliphinde liphawule ukuqala kokukhuphuka. Lokhu kukhuphuka kuzothatha cishe amahora amabili, okuzokukhathaza nakanjani. Ukuqeda lokhu kukhuphuka kuzosiyisa eDobate, indawo yethu yosuku.

Ukulahlekelwa ukuphakama kosuku kuyinto encane, ngaphezu kwamamitha ayi-150, okuhlanganisa uhambo olude lwamahora ayi-6 kuya kwayi-7 kanye nebanga eliphelele lokuhamba elingamakhilomitha ayi-10.5. Kodwa-ke, uhambo luzoba nzima njengoba sizophinde siwele izindawo ezintathu ezahlukene zezintaba. Sisuka eDobate, sizokhuphuka ihlathi eliluhlaza, siqonde eKeke La Pass, sifinyelele amamitha angu-4170 ngaphezu kolwandle. Le ngxenye yohambo izosithatha cishe ihora nesigamu ukuqeda.

Ngemva kwalokho, sizokwehla i-pass bese sikhuphuka siye eShipton La Pass, eyaziwa nangokuthi iTutu La Pass. Ukunyuka le pass kuzothatha ihora nesigamu elengeziwe. Uma sehla e-pass, sizoya eSano Pokhari Danda, ethatha cishe ihora elilodwa ukufika kuyo. Sizothatha ikhefu elifushane lapho ngaphambi kokugibela i-pass yokugcina yosuku, iKhongma La Pass (amamitha angu-3890). Sizokhuphuka le pass ngehora elilodwa nje bese ekugcineni sifika engxenyeni yokugcina yohambo lwanamuhla.

Usuku lwe-16 lweMakalu Base Camp Trek lulahlekelwa ukuphakama okungaphezu kwamamitha angu-1400. Ibanga eliphelele lingamakhilomitha ayi-13 kanti isikhathi sohambo esilinganiselwa emahoreni ama-5 kuya kwangu-6, okusithatha sifike kumamitha angu-1500 ngaphezu kolwandle. Sisuka eDanda Kharka, sizoqala ukwehla ehlathini eliminyene le-fir. Ukuwela leli hlathi kuzosifikisa engxenyeni egandayiwe ngamatshe, sikhuphuke kancane ngaphambi kokwehla eKhongma Danda. Ngemva kwamahora angaba mathathu ohambo, sizofika edolobhaneni laseTashigaon, silandelwe ukwehla siye eSeduwa.

Lolu usuku lokugcina lokuhamba ngezinyawo lohambo lweMakalu Base Camp Trek. Uhambo lwanamuhla luhlanganisa ibanga elingamakhilomitha ayi-7 lokuhamba ngezinyawo, kanye nobude bohambo obulinganiselwa emahoreni ama-4 kuya kwayi-5. Sisuka eSeduwa, sizofika eMfuleni i-Arun ngemuva kwamahora angaba ngu-2 okuhamba ngezinyawo. Ukuwela umfula phezu kwebhuloho elilengayo kusiholela ekukhuphukeni edolobhaneni laseNum. Lokhu kukhuphuka kungaphezu kwamamitha angu-900 ubude, okwenza kube nzima ukukhuphuka.

Ngemva kokufika eNum, sizoqala uhambo lwethu lokubuyela eTumlingtar. Lolu hambo luzothatha cishe amahora amane kuya kwayisihlanu.

Ngosuku olulandelayo, sizodla isidlo sasekuseni esisuka endaweni yokuhlala izolo ebusuku bese siya esikhumulweni sezindiza ukuze sibambe indiza yethu sibuyele eKathmandu. Ngemva kokufika eKathmandu, umshayeli uzokushiya endaweni yakho yokuhlala yezinkanyezi ezintathu ukuze uhlale ubusuku bonke. Uma usukulungele, kufanele uzame ukuhlola ezinye izindawo ezikhangayo edolobheni futhi udle izibiliboco zasendaweni ngenkathi usekuyo. Kamuva kusihlwa, sizokulanda ehhotela ukuze sidle isidlo sakusihlwa esikhethekile sokuvalelisa kwenye yezindawo zokudlela ezinhle kakhulu edolobheni.

Lolu usuku lokugcina lohambo lweMakalu Base Camp Trek. Ngemva kokumboza zonke izinqubo zokugcina, sizoba nomcimbi omfushane wokuvalelisa bese sikushiya eTribhuvan International Airport.